The Randolph, Oxford: hotel review

By Fiona Duncan 919AM GMT sixteen March 2010

Previous of Images Next The road house was built in 1864 in a watered-down version of Gothic Revival described as "Scottish Early English" In a uncanny box of actuality merging with fiction, the road house is most appropriate well well known for the panelled Morse Bar A flagship of the rather multi-coloured Macdonald organisation of hotels, it is looked after well sufficient by the primogenitor association

Its not mostly I get trolleyed these days. At the Randolph, however, I am all the time circled by them, orchestrated with most arm fluttering and napkin waving by Giuseppe, the humorous, old-school maître d who has been here for 6 years.

First comes the smoked-salmon trolley John Ross award-winning smoked salmon to be accurate, sliced with a develop by Giuseppe and served with mustard, capers, shallots and crème fraîche. Delicious.

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Next up, the beef trolley, temperament zero but a great, hot, ideally baked Aberdeen Angus rib, ready to be forged in to juicy, rose red slices. Marvellous. And finally, Giuseppes celebration square the flamb trolley, from that total bananas are delivered in a extraordinary whoosh of blue flame. By right away I am putty in his hands; I dont even similar to bananas.

When did you last have a flambd banana, generally one conjured with all the resplendence of a new mixture by Alain Ducasse or Feran Adria? This, I contingency say, is branch out to be a rarely ludicrous dinner, aided by a expel of waiters and waitresses who could have been questionable characters in an part of Morse, as well as by the baronial vicinity and perspective of the stately Ashmolean Museum. Somehow it feels right to be eating beef and bananas from an out-of-date trolley when on vacation the schooled city of forgetful spires.

I will return. I could have outlayed all day in the Ashmolean, where Rick Mathers perplexing new art studio blueprint creates erratic between the museums sundry treasures an interesting pleasure. So most so that after dual hours Id frequency got proposed but already run out of time.

For on vacation the Ashmolean, the Randolph is the viewable place to stay. Built in 1864 in a watered-down version of Gothic Revival described, oddly, as "Scottish Early English", the road house has played host to generations of academics and relatives giving tea to their tyro offspring, though now, in a uncanny box of actuality merging with fiction, the most appropriate well well known for the panelled Morse Bar, where they used to "serve a decent pint" to the good Inspector, constantly paid for by his sidekick, Lewis. Photographs of the actors and Morse writer Colin Dexter accoutre the walls; theres even a coronet board commemorating the long-running series. Everyone flattering most believes that Morse and Lewis were real, me included.

And what of the rest of the hotel? Its only similar to the dining room really. If the sniff of fully cooked cabbage is absent, you wouldnt be astounded if it were. Staid (though positively not unfair or worn), dull even, the someway acceptable. A flagship of the rather multi-coloured Macdonald organisation of hotels, it is looked after well sufficient by the primogenitor company, though it never manages to shake up off the old Trusthouse Forte legacy. Not surprising, for when the tumble of Forte came in the Nineties, Macdonald paid for a organisation of their "Heritage" properties, together with the Randolph.

Beaumont Street (0844 879 9132; www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/randolph). Doubles from �120; breakfast from �10. Access probable for guest with disabilities. More reviews by Fiona Duncan at thehotelguru.com.

Rooms (out of five) TTT

Sober; ask for a perspective Martyrs Memorial or Ashmolean ­

Service TTTT

Queuing at accepting at the back of a garland of suits creates a bad initial impression; key staff are characterful

Character TTT

Well, Morse favourite it

Food & splash TTTT

Stick to anything from a trolley and youll be fine

Value for income TTT

Seems costly for whats offered